Sculpture & Casting
Sculpture
'As practising myself the art of sculpture no less than that of painting, arid doing both the one and the other in the same degree!
[Notes made in preparation for a statue]
Of that at Pavia 1 the movement more than anything else is deserving of praise.
It is better to copy the antique than modern work.
You cannot combine utility with beauty as it appears in fortresses and men.
The trot is almost of the nature of the free horse.
Where natural vivacity is lacking it is necessary to create it fortuitously, c.a. 147 r. b
The sculptor cannot represent transparent or luminous things. c.a. 215 v. d
All the heads of the large iron pins. 2 c.a. 216 v. a
How the eye cannot discern the shapes of bodies within their
boundaries except by means of shadows and lights; and there are many
sciences which would be nothing without the science of these shadows
and lights: as painting, sculpture, astronomy, a great part of perspec-
tive and the like.
As may be shown, the sculptor cannot work without the help of
1 The reference is to the antique bronze equestrian statue representing Odoacer, King
of the Goths, according to the Anonimo Morelliano, Gisulf according to Antonio Campo
the historian of Cremona, which was removed by Charlemagne from Ravenna to Pavia
and stood in the Piazza del Duomo until the time of its destruction, which occurred in a
revolutionary outbreak in 1796. It was called Regisole, the name being derived from the
reflections of the sun's rays on the gilded bronze. Petrarch in a letter to Boccaccio says
of it that 'it was looked upon as a masterpiece of art by all good judges'.
2 The words are at the side of a drawing in red chalk representing a horse in an
attitude of walking seen within a frame.
shadows and lights, since without these the material carved would
remain all of one colour; and by the ninth of this [book] it is shown
that a level surface illumined by uniform light does not vary in any
part the clearness or obscurity of its natural colour, and this uni-
formity of colour goes to prove the uniformity of the smoothness of
its surface. It would follow therefore that if the material carved were
not clothed by shadows and lights, which are necessitated by the
prominences of certain muscles and the hollows interposed between
them, the sculptor would not be able uninterruptedly to see the prog-
ress of his own work, and this the work that he is carving requires,
and so what he fashioned during the day would be almost as though
it had been made in the darkness of the night.
OF PAINTING
Painting, however, by means of these shadows and lights comes to
represent upon level surfaces scenes with hollows and raised portions,
separated from each other by different degrees of distance and in
different aspects. c.a. 277 v. a
Measurement of the Sicilian [horse], the leg behind, in front, raised
and extended. c.a. 291 v. a
OF STATUES
If you wish to make a figure of marble make first one of clay, and
after you have finished it and let it dry, set it in a case, which should
be sufficiently large that — after the figure has been taken out — it can
hold the block of marble wherein you purpose to lay bare a figure re-
sembling that in clay. Then after you have placed the clay figure inside
this case make pegs so that they fit exactly into holes in the case, and
drive them in at each hole until each white peg touches the figure at
a different spot; stain black such parts of the pegs as project out of the
case, and make a distinguishing mark for each peg and for its hole, so
that you may fit them together at your ease. Then take the clay model
out of the case and place the block of marble in it, and take away
from the marble sufficient for all the pegs to be hidden in the holes up
to their marks, and in order to be able to do this better, make the case
so that the whole of it can be lifted up and the bottom may still remain
under the marble; and by this means you will be able to use the
cutting tools with great readiness. a 43 r.
OF THE BLOW OF SCULPTORS
Because the time of the blow is indivisible, like the contact caused by
this blow, its operation is of such swiftness that time does not permit
this blow to transfer itself to the foundations of the things struck with
sufficient swiftness to prevent the blow being already dead in its upper
parts, like the mason who breaks a stone in his hand with a hammer
without violence or damage to the hand.
And this is why, after the iron a b has been struck by the blow of
the hammer in its upper part a, this part has obeyed the nature of the
blow rather than transferred it to its base b, so that the extremity is
enlarged more than the base.
And from this it follows that sculptors work to better effect upon
their marbles when they rough-hew with a pointed hammer than
with a chisel struck by the hammer.
A sharp sword will also cut a roll in the air. c 6 v.
[Sculpture]
When you have finished building up the figure you will make the
statue with all its surface measurements. Quaderni in 3 r.
Some have erred in teaching sculptors to surround the limbs of their
figures with wires, as though believing that these limbs were of equal
roundness at each part at which they were surrounded by these wires.
Quaderni vi 10 r.
Casting
'0f the horse I will say nothing because I know* the times!
. . . the cold will have sufficient thickness to touch the plaster, and
you pour out the rest and fill with plaster and then break the mould,
and put the iron pins across, boring through the wax and plaster, and
then clean the wax at your leisure; afterwards put it in a case, and
put a mould of plaster over it, leaving the air holes and the mouth for
the casting. Through this mouth turn the mould upside down, and
after it has been heated you will be able to draw out the wax contained
within it; and you will be able to fill up the vacuum which remains
with your liquefied material, and the thing cast will become hollow.
But in order to prevent the plaster from becoming broken while being
rebaked you must place within it what you know of. c.a. 352 r. c
[With drawing of apparatus]
This is the way in which the forms rapidly dry and are continually
turned like roasts. Tr. 29 a
HOW CASTS OUGHT TO BE POLISHED
You should make a bunch of iron wire as thick as fine string and
scrub them with it with water, but keeping a tub beneath so that it
may not cause mud below.
HOW TO REMOVE THE ROUGH EDGES OF THE BRONZE
You should make an iron rod which may be of the shape of a large
chisel, and rub it along the edges which remain upon the casts of the
guns and which are caused by the joins in the mould; but see that the
rod is a good weight and let the strokes be long and sweeping.
TO FACILITATE THE MELTING
First alloy part of the metal in the crucible and then put it in the
furnace: this being in a molten state will make a beginning in the
melting of the copper.
TO GUARD AGAINST THE COPPER COOLING IN THE
FURNACE
When the copper begins to cool in the furnace proceed instantly as
soon as you see this to slice it up with a stirring pole while it is in a
paste, or if it has become entirely cold, cut it as you would lead with
broad large chisels.
FOR THE MAKING OF A LARGE CAST
If you have to make a cast of a hundred thousand pounds, make it
with five furnaces with two thousand pounds for each, or as much as
three thousand pounds at most. Tr. 47 a
HOW THE BOARD SHOULD BE PLACED WHICH SUPPORTS
THE MORTAR
The board that serves as a guide to the shape of the mortar ought
therefore to be reduplicated from the centre backwards by the breadth
of a great plank, to the end that it should not become twisted, and
where this board has the impress of the frames and form of the cannon
is the face not the edge, and when you add the tallow burnish this
face with a pig's tooth so that it may be solid, and let the tallow be
finely strained in order that as it turns it may not make marks.
WHAT TO DO IN ORDER TO BREAK UP A LARGE MASS OF
BRONZE
If you wish to break a large mass of bronze suspend it first, then
make a wall round it on the four sides in the shape of a hod for bricks,
and make a great fire there; and when it is quite red-hot give it a blow
with a great weight raised above it and do this with great force.
1022 CASTING
| With two sketches]
OF CASTING MANY SMALL CANNON AT THE SAME TIME
Make the courses for the bronze as is shown here just now; and keep
d b c stopped up, but leave the course a entirely open; and when that
is full unstop b, and when that is full unstop c, and then d\ and the
door of the courses should be of brick, the thickness of three fingers
and well covered with ashes and then it is opened with the pincers; and
branches of the courses when they also are cast ought to be divided
witn small plates of iron covered with earth before they are fastened.
Tr. 48 a
HOW TO MAKE LEAD COMBINE WITH OTHER METAL
If you wish for the sake of economy to put lead with the metal, and
in order to lessen the amount of the tin which is necessary, first alloy
the lead with the tin and then put above the molten copper.
OF A NECESSITY FOR MELTING IN A FURNACE
The furnace should be between four pillars with strong foundations.
OF THE THICKNESS OF THE COATING
The coating ought not to exceed the thickness of two fingers, and it
ought to be laid on in four thicknesses over the fine clay and then well
prepared, and it should be annealed only on the inside and then given
a fine dressing of ashes and cattle dung.
OF THE THICKNESS OF THE MORTAR
The mortar ought to carry a ball of six hundred pounds and more,
and by this rule you will take the measure of the diameter of the ball
and divide it in six parts, and one of these parts will be its thickness
at the muzzle, and it will always be half at the breech. And if the ball
is to be of seven hundred pounds one seventh of the diameter of the
ball will be its thickness at the muzzle, and if the ball is to be eight
hundred it will be the eighth of its diameter at the muzzle, and if
nine hundred one eighth and one half of it, and if one thousand one
ninth.
OF THE LENGTH OF THE TUBE OF THE MORTAR
If you wish it to throw a ball of stone, make the length of the tube
as six or up to seven times the diameter of the ball; and if the ball is
to be of iron make this tube up to twelve times the ball, and if the ball
is to be of lead make it up to eighteen times. I mean when the mortar
is to have its mouth fitted to receive within it six hundred pounds of
*cone ball and over.
OF THE THICKNESS OF SMALL CANNON
The thickness of small cannon at the muzzle ought not to exceed
from a third to a half of the diameter of the ball, nor the length from
thirty to thirty six times its diameter. Tr. 49 a
OF LUTING THE FURNACE ON THE INSIDE
The furnace ought before you put the metal in it to be luted with
earth from Valenza, and over that ashes.
OF RESTORING THE METAL WHEN IT SEEMS ON THE
POINT OF COOLING
When you see that the bronze is on the point of becoming congealed
take wood of the willow cut into small chips and make up the fire
with it.
THE CAUSE OF ITS CONGEALING
I say the cause of this congealing is often derived from there being
loo much fire and also from the wood being only half-dried.
TO KNOW THE CONDITION OF THE FIRE
You will know when the fire is good and suitable by the clear flames,
and if you see the points of these flames turbid and ending in much
smoke do not trust it, and especially when you have the molten metal
almost in fluid state.
WHAT KINDS OF WOOD ARE SUITABLE
Wood is suitable when it is the young willow, or if willow cannot be
procured get alder, and let each branch be young and well dried.
OF ALLOYING THE METAL
The metal used for bombards must invariably be made with six nr
even eight parts to a hundred, that is six parts of tin to one hundred
of copper, but the less you put in the stronger will be the bombard.
WHEN THE TIN SHOULD BE ADDED TO THE COPPER
The tin should be put with the copper when you have the coppet
changed into a fluid state.
HOW THE PROCESS OF MELTING MAY BE EXPEDITED
You can expedite the process of melting when the copper is two-
thirds changed to a fluid state. With a chestnut rod you will then be
able frequently to manage to stir the remainder of the copper which
is still in one piece amid the melted part. Tr. 50 a
THE FINE EARTH OF THE BOMBARDS
Take the dust of wool clippings and fix it on a wall in thin plaster
so that it drives well. Then pound it and sift in fine powder, and to
fifty parts of this powder add ten parts of brick, not over-baked
and well pounded and sifted, also a small quantity of fine wool clip-
pings or fustian cloth; and then to this compound add six parts of
ashes which you will sift when moistened with water well salted; and
this you will apply liquid and thin two or three times with a plasterer's
brush, leaving it every time to dry without fire. Also it would be ad-
visable to add first to this mixture ashes of burnt ox-dung moistened
with salt water.
OF THE TALLOW
The tallow ought to be applied mixed with soot from a blacksmith,
and as fine as you can, or if you desire ashes of ox-dung.
OF THE FRAMES
The frames should be made almost to the limit of the cord as though
[one were winding] a peg-top, and above this the frames should be
completed with fine earth and polished with the said tallow and soot,
and the ornaments should be of wax.
THE FRAME
The frame of the tail ought to have as its final covering a square in
which are brickdust and ashes with salt water. Or it is even better to
apply ashes of ox-dung with salt water over the said frame.
OF DIRECTING THE FRAME
The frame should first be put in the trench with grappling-hooks as
you saw before, then annealed little by little, emerging in the manner
somewhat of the colour of brick {di poi lau [?] con uno negnietto)
striking softly bit by bit, and where you hear it resound bind with
iron wire, but in order not to go astray place it to turn everywhere.
EARTH SUITABLE FOR GENERAL USE
The earth to be generally used ought to be that of which bricks are
made, mixed with ox-dung or clippings of woollen cloth. Tr. 51 a
The bottom of the stove, three rows of unbaked bricks of ordinary
clay and an inch and a half of ashes, the vault one layer of unbaked
bricks of Valenza clay and another layer of baked bricks.
Loose earth [?] x should be put with the ashes.
The wood of the frame of the bombards should be covered an inch
deep in cinders.
1 MS. / calossi
Hoare's Ital. Diet. art. loscio has terra loscia, loose earth.
The mouth of the stove, that is where the flame enters, ought to be
of large bricks of Valenza clay.
Each of two flues ought to be for the half of the window for the en-
trance of the flame. Tr. 54 a
NOTES ON USE OF 'SAGOMA' 1
Let the plumb-line be extended in two directions opposite to the
centre of the poles a c, and let the plane surface be formed of plaster
(MS. osseg^= gesso) little by little under the movement of the
'sagoma'.
And when the pavement is entirely finished the whole should be
corrected again minutely with the 'sagoma'; and this 'sagoma' when
used on the prepared surface (MS. otasseg = gessato) should be used
with the greatest possible care. g 14 r.
[Of friction of the sagoma]
The friction of the polishing instrument against its surface ought
not to be done with the edge of the instrument, except when first pre-
paring the said surface. But when it is necessary to refine this surface
then the instrument ought not to be of less width than half the sur-
face. This may be proved: suppose / e d c to be the said polishing in-
strument and f e n m the smoothed surface. I maintain that if this
polishing instrument were to have only one cutting edge, as in d c
with a b, it would have far greater weight when the perpendicular line
was upon the part d c of the smoothed surface than when it was on
the position / e of the said surface. And for this reason it would wear
away the rubbed parts much more if it were straight than if it were
slanting. And the concaveness of this surface would be unequal, such
inequality as cannot be formed by the great contact of the polishing
instrument with the surface which it polishes.
But it would be better that the instrument and the surface should
be the equal the one of the other, for when one of the sides of the in-
strument was in the middle of the said surface its extremity would
receive all the accidental weight of this instrument.
1 A mould, also 'an instrument for smoothing and polishing a surface' — Ravaisson-
Mollien.
But the polishing instrument with one cutting edge is necessary,
merely in order to give the form to its smoothed surface by means oi
three or four movements, which should make it entirely perfect.
c 16 r.
The cogs that cause the movement of the sagoma set in their
grooves. c 37 r.
The sagoma should be as that used on the road of Fiesole — with
water.
Because it is necessary that in proportion as the said instrument is
lowered so it wears itself away, and as after having been lowered it
becomes very strong it is therefore necessary to make the pulleys with
nuts so that screws turn within them, and that it shuts and opens be-
tween a c as b shows between a c, and that these rings which form
nuts for the screws should be drawn with the cords d e f g. c 43 v.
VARNISH OF THE FIRED SURFACE 1
Mercury with Jupiter and Venus : 2 after the paste has been made it
should be worked upon the sagoma continully until Mercury is entirely
separated from Jupiter and Venus. g 46 v.
USE OF THE SAGOMA
Let the concavity be pressed with the instrument first several times
backwards and forwards before it is varnished, then the varnish should
be applied to the moist surface, and go over it with the sieve; use the
mould two or three times, then expose it to the furnace, and when it
acquires lustre immediately apply the mould while it is hot.
The centre of the revolution of the mould upon the structure ought
to be fixed, and such that it can be raised and lowered, and moved
forward and backward, so that its . . . falls upon the centre of the
mould.
The base of the oven should be of the same shape as that of the
object placed in the oven; and it is well that it should be of one piece
1 Vernicie della igna.
2 i.e., according to Richter, quicksilver with iron and copper.
of tufa stone, so that it can resist like an anvil the transverse percus-
sion of the heavy mould which strikes it. c 47 r.
Let the wood of the sagoma be well covered over with pitch (MS.
otaicepni = inpeciato) so that it may not bend. c 51 v.
In the polishing instrument there is a space left in order to be able to
insert the lead moulding, and so that one may be able to change these
from time to time as they are consumed. And so with the emery, one
will guide the 'male' of the fired surface to perfection, and upon this
one will afterwards print the copper (MS. emar = rame) after it has
been made absolutely smooth.
N> surface, is of Saturn 1 and it serves for the process of smoothing
conjoined with the motive power, m below, in margin.
The motive power is Neptune.
This will keep the object to be polished below and the polishing in-
strument above; and the pole will find itself above, and so this pole not
being weighed down as is that of the instrument represented above
will come to maintain itself, and as it is not able to consume itself the
process will be complete.
Moreover the thing polished will support above itself the substance
which polishes it, and the polishing instrument being of lead may be
recast and adjusted many times.
The mould may be of Venus, Jupiter or Saturn, and often cast back
into the lap of its mother, and it may be worked over with fine emery;
and the mould may be of Venus and Jupiter plastered over Venus.
But first you will put to the test Venus and Mercury mixed with
Jupiter, and manage so that Mercury may escape, and then roll them
up tightly so that Venus and Jupiter become blended in Neptune as
thinly as possible.
[Figure]
This ought to be upside down, in order that the mould may weigh
upon the surface it treats with a perpendicular weight. Thus the
centre of the object in circumvolution will not consume itself, in order
not to have the weight upon itself; and apart from this the polishing
process will serve to receive and support it, as I have said in the first
instance. g 53 r.
1 Lead, Richtef.
HOW TO MAKE A CURVE WHICH LEAVES THE
PLATE PARALLEL PRECISELY
Have a frame of stout walnut wood upon which build a square
frame with raised centering, and upon this are fixed both ends of the
drawn plate, which is separated at the end from the sides of the wall,
carrying and holding with it all the plates that are nailed above. And
this frame should always be with the above-mentioned dark plates.
g 74 v.
STUCCO
Cover with stucco the boss of the . . . (ingnea?) of plaster, and let
this be made of Venus and Mercury 1 and smear this boss well over
with a uniform thickness of the blade of a knife, doing it with a rule
(sagoma?) and cover this with the body of a bell so that it may drip,
and you will have again the moisture with which you formed the
paste: dry the rest well and then fire it, and beat or burnish it with a
good burnisher, and make it thick towards the side.
Powder the glass to a paste with borax and water, and make
stucco; then drain it of? so as to dry it, then varnish it with fire so that
it shines well. g 75 v.
If you wish to make a large thin metal plate of lead, make a smooth
level surface and fill it with glowing coals and melt lead in it, and then
with a smooth rake take away the coals and allow it to cool and it is
made. Forster n 46 v.
When you wish to cast in wax burn off the scum with a candle and
the cast will come without holes.
Grind verdigris with rue many times together with juice of lemon
and keep it from Naples yellow. Forster 11 64 v.
The steel is first beaten well for the length, then broken in squares,
and these are placed one above another and well covered with earth
of Valenza and powdered talc, and it is dried over a slow fire and
gradually heated; and when it has been thoroughly heated both inside
1 Ingnea, Venus and Mercury are written backwards in the text, i.e. they appear as
aengni, erenev and oirucrem. Dr. Richter suggests that Venus and Mercury may mean
'marble' and 'lime' of which stucco is composed.
and out then the fire exerts its force and makes it become molten. Bur
first insert flakes of iron, then have the earth gradually removed and
beat it lengthwise; and this is good steel. Forster in 33 v.
Dry earth sixteen pounds; a hundred pounds of metal; moistened
earth twenty; moisten the hundred of metal which adds four pounds
of water; one of wax, one pound of metal somewhat less; cloth clip-
pings with earth measure for measure. Forster in 36
V.
Two ounces of plaster to a pound of metal; [oil of] walnut eases it
at the curve. Forster in 37 r.
TO MAKE A PLASTER CAST FOR BRONZE
Take for every two cupfuls of plaster one of burnt ox-horn, and
mix them together and make the cast. Forster in 39 v.
FOR CASTING
Tartar burnt and powdered with plaster and used in casting causes
such plaster to adhere together when it is annealed; then it is dis-
solved in water. Forster in 42 v.
For mirrors, thirty of tin upon a hundred of copper; but first clarify
the two metals and plunge them in water and granulate them, and
then fuse the copper and put it upon the tin. Forster in 87 v.
MOULD OF THE HORSE
Make the horse upon legs of iron, strong and firm in a good founda-
tion. Then rub it with tallow and give it a good coating, letting it dry
thoroughly layer by layer. And by this you will increase its thickness
by the breadth of three fingers. Then fix and bind it with iron ac-
cording to need. Besides this hollow out the mould, then get it to the
required thickness, and then fill up the mould again by degrees and
continue until it is entirely filled. Then bind it round with its irons
and strap it up, and anneal it on the inner side where it has to touch
the bronze.
OF MAKING THE MOULD IN PIECES
Mark upon the horse when finished all the pieces of the mould with
which you wish to cover the horse, and after the clay has been laid on
cut it to correspond in every piece, so that when the mould is finished
you can take it off and then replace it in its first position with its
catches by the countersigns.
The square block a b will go between the cover and the core, that is
in the hollow space where the liquefied bronze is to be; and these
square blocks of bronze will keep the spaces between the mould and
the cover at an equal distance, and for this reason these blocks are of
great importance.
The clay must be mixed with sand.
Take wax to give back and to pay for what has been used.
Dry one layer after another. Make the outer mould of plaster in
order to save time in drying and the cost of wood; and with this
plaster fasten the iron bands outside and inside for a thickness of two
fingers; make terra cotta.
And this mould you will take a day to make; half a boat-load of
plaster will serve you.
Good.
Stop it up again with paste and clay, or white of egg and brick and
rubble. Windsor: Drawings 12347 r *
Three irons which bind the mould 1
If you wish to make casts rapidly and simply, make them with a
box of river sand moistened with vinegar.
After having made the mould upon the horse you will make the
thickness of the metal in clay.
Note in alloying how may hours are needed for each hundred-
weight. In casting each keep the furnace with its fire closed up. Let
all the inside of the mould be saturated with linseed oil or turpentine.
Then take a handful of powdered borax and hard rosin with aqua
vitae and put a coat of pitch over the mould so that while under-
ground the damp may not [injure it?].
In order to manage the large mould make a model of the small
mould; make a small room in proportion.
I have followed Richter's order of arrangement in this passage.
Make the vents in the mould while it is upon the horse.
Hold the hoofs in tongs and cast them with fish-glue.
Weigh the parts of the mould to find out what amount of metal it
will take to fill them, and give so much to the furnace that it may
supply each part with its quantity of metal; and this you will ascer-
tain by weighing the clay of that part of the mould to which the
quantity in the furnace has to correspond. And this is done so that the
furnace that is for the legs fills them and does not have to supply
metal for the head from the legs which would be impossible.
Cast at the same casting as the horse the little door (sportello) of
the .... Windsor: Drawings 12350